We organized our own car (with driver) – and in two weeks, covered almost 2000 kilometers over good roads, bad roads, and no roads. Our hotels were mostly old castles and forts. We loved the colors, music, and happiness of the Rajasthani wedding season.
The Taj was still romantic, even for Byron after visits going back 50 years. And finally Khajuraho, magical, much more than the stereotypes about erotic sculptures.
Maren with GL and Lalita Kaul, at the India Gate in New Delhi.Mandawa lies halfway between Delhi and Bikaner. It used to be a major trading center. Merchants built big houses (havelis) and commissioned beautiful paintings, all now abandoned and uncared for. Few tourists come. It was one of our favorite places.Castle Mandawa. The view from our room.We saw lots of castles. The one in Bikaner was the one we liked best. The Maharaja who built it seems to have liked Delft tiles. We felt right at home.Sometimes we got tired of four wheels!Our hotel in Jaisalmeer was built only c.20 years ago. A modern castle.We do not usually consort with elephants. (Byron prefers donkeys). But the Jain temple in Ranakpur is another off-the-track marvel. All marble, 1400 pillars, and gorgeous sculptures.The lobby of our hotel in Udaipur. When we walked in, Maren was not sure if she was in Disneyland or Bollywood.Disneyland or Bollywood.The biggest hotel in Bundi has 12 rooms. It used to be a haveli.Bundi was one of the centers of Mewari painting. On the walls of the castle are masterpieces like this one. We were the only visitors.Khajuraho. In the middle of Madhya Pradesh, buried in the jungle for 700 years. 100s of kilometers from anywhere. We bumped our way in by car and out by air.
